Debt Payoff Calculators

Debt Consolidation Calculator

A lower rate isn't automatically a better deal — stretching the term can add more interest than the lower rate saves. This compares total cost, not just the sticker rate.

Compare consolidating vs. keeping your debts separate

For unsecured debt — credit cards, personal loans, payday loans. Leave out auto loans or already-low-rate student loans; those have better options elsewhere.

Your current debts

Debt 1
$
%
Debt 2
$
%
Debt 3 (optional)
$
%
$

New consolidation loan

%
%
Weighted average rate on your current debt
0%

Keep debts separate

At your current combined payment

Monthly payment$0
Time to debt-free0 mo
Total interest$0

Consolidate

New loan, fixed term

Monthly payment$0
Origination fee (upfront)$0
Total interest + fee$0
Consolidating saves you
$0
in total interest and fees
Your new loan's term is longer than your current payoff would take at today's payment. Even with interest savings, check that you're not just trading lower monthly payments for a longer overall payoff — that tradeoff isn't automatically a good one.

Weighted average rate = each balance × its APR, summed, divided by total balance. Current-path payoff uses your entered monthly payment applied at that weighted rate. This is a planning estimate — your actual consolidation loan rate depends on your credit profile.

What debt consolidation actually is

Debt consolidation combines multiple debts — typically high-rate unsecured debt like credit cards, personal loans, or payday loans — into a single new loan, usually to get a lower interest rate, a single monthly payment, or both. It's not debt forgiveness or debt settlement; you still owe the full amount, just to one lender instead of several.

The number that actually matters: total interest, not the rate

The term extension trap: a lower rate with a longer repayment term can quietly cost more overall than staying with your current, higher-rate debt. Stretching a 2-year payoff into a 6-year loan lowers your monthly payment, but adds years of additional interest — even at a meaningfully lower rate. Always compare total interest paid across the full term, not just the monthly payment or the headline rate.

Weighted average rate: what you're really paying now

If you have multiple debts at different rates, your effective cost isn't a simple average of the rates — it's a weighted average, accounting for how much you owe at each rate: each balance times its APR, summed across all debts, divided by the total balance. A $5,000 balance at 24% pulls the weighted average up more than a $1,000 balance at 24% would, since more of your total debt sits at that rate.

Origination fees, and the break-even question

Most personal loans used for consolidation charge a one-time origination fee — typically 1% to 8% of the loan amount — deducted from what you actually receive or added to your balance. A 3% fee on a $9,000 loan is $270, money that needs to be recouped through interest savings before consolidation is a net win. If your monthly payment drops by $30 after consolidating, that fee takes about 9 months to break even — worth calculating explicitly rather than assuming any fee-bearing loan is automatically worth it.

When consolidation makes sense — and when it doesn't

Consolidation tends to win whenStaying separate (or DIY payoff) tends to win when
Your new rate is 5+ percentage points below your weighted averageYou can't qualify for a meaningfully lower rate
The new term is similar to your current payoff timelineSome existing debt is already at 0% promotional APR
You won't run up new balances on freed-up credit cardsYou can free up extra monthly budget to attack your highest-rate debt directly

If you'd rather tackle existing debts directly instead of taking out a new loan, our Credit Card Debt Payoff Calculator models the snowball and avalanche methods on your existing balances without introducing a new loan at all.

Weighted average rate methodology, origination fee mechanics, and the term-extension risk cross-verified against multiple independent 2026 debt consolidation guides, including matching worked examples. This is a planning estimate — actual loan offers depend on your credit profile and the specific lender.

Frequently asked questions

Before you consolidate debt.

Is debt consolidation the same as debt settlement?

No. Consolidation combines debts into a new loan you fully repay, usually at a better rate. Settlement negotiates paying less than you owe, which typically damages your credit significantly more.

How is the weighted average interest rate calculated?

Multiply each debt's balance by its APR, sum those figures across all your debts, then divide by your total balance. This reflects your true blended cost better than simply averaging the rates.

Can a lower interest rate still cost me more overall?

Yes — if the new loan's term is significantly longer than your current payoff timeline would be, the extra months of interest can outweigh the benefit of a lower rate. Always compare total interest paid, not just the monthly payment.

What is an origination fee?

A one-time upfront charge, typically 1-8% of the loan amount, deducted from your loan proceeds or added to your balance. It needs to be recouped through interest savings before consolidation is a net financial win.

Should I include my car loan or student loans in a consolidation calculator?

Generally no — debt consolidation calculators are built for high-rate unsecured debt like credit cards and personal loans. Auto loans and already-low-rate student loans usually have better dedicated refinancing options.

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